Day 1- My Islands Whisky Trip: Harris and Skye

Itinerary

10:20 – 11:30: Flight (Loganair): Edinburgh Airport – Stornoway
12:55 – 13:10: Bus (W5: Stornoway): Stornoway Airport – Stornoway Bus Station
14:10 – 15:10: Bus (W10: Tarbert): Stornoway Bus Station – Tarbert Pier
15:10 – 15:20: Walk to Harris Distillery
16:30 – 18:10: Ferry (Calmac: Uig): Tarbert Pier – Uig
18:10 – 18:35: Walk to Uig Hotel 
Overnight at Uig Hotel

Today I was heading to the Stronoway, which is pretty far by public transport, so I was lucky that a direct flight to Edinburgh was available. I hopped on the tram at 8 am to the Airport and actually had to stand all the way as the tram was packed with commuters heading to work. After navigating security, I picked up a meal deal from Boots to save money for lunch. However, I quickly realised what a mistake that was when it came to a rather pricy £6.50 (note to self: pick up a meal deal before heading to the airport next time).

Sitting at the gate, I started to get concerned when, five minutes before boarding, there were no staff in sight. It turned out my flight was delayed due to weather, which was surprising given it was sunny, dry, and 17°C outside. The delay wasn’t too bad (around 40 minutes), but it had a knock-on effect on my itinerary for the day as it meant I would miss my initial bus connection from the airport into Stornoway.

The flight itself was just over an hour and offered some spectacular views of the Highlands and islands of Scotland. As we descended over Stornoway, I understood the reason for the initial delay as there were thick, low-level clouds cutting through the otherwise clear skies.

The flight arrived just before midday, but as we were late, I had a long wait for my next bus at 12:55 pm. While it’s technically possible to walk as the town is just under four miles, it wouldn’t have been any quicker than waiting. Unfortunately, this delay also meant I missed the earlier bus to Tarbert at 12:30 and had to wait for the next one at 14:10. The bus trip is quite quick and it terminates at Stronoway bus station in the centre of town.

I did have some time to explore Stornoway, and as it was sunny, it was a pleasant place to wander around. There’s a selection of cafés and gift shops dotted throughout the town, and plenty of opportunities to splash out on Harris Tweed if you’re feeling flush. I stopped in one of the shops to pick up gifts for my parents, which included a bookmark, which cost a rather pricy £8.50 as it was made from Harris tweed. I briefly considered grabbing a pint, but was disappointed to find the bars closed, although that was perhaps not surprising given it was around 1:15 pm on a Wednesday.

I made my way back to the bus station for the W10 bus, which was due at 14:10, and, despite arriving 15 minutes early, I almost missed it. The bus station has three stances, but frustratingly, no clear signage or timetables indicating where buses stop. I sat in the middle stance and assumed I’d see the bus pull into one of the stances, but I was wrong. I failed to realise there were unmarked parking bays at the back of the station where buses also stop. Luckily, I spotted a woman I’d met at the airport heading in that direction and followed her just in time.

The bus itself was excellent, more like a luxury coach than a standard local bus. It had comfortable fabric seats, good air conditioning (very welcome on what had become an unseasonably warm day), and USB charging ports. The journey to Tarbert took just over an hour along winding, hilly roads with some stunning scenery (top tip: sit on the left-hand side for the best views).

On arrival in Tarbert, I wanted to visit the Isle of Harris Distillery. I didn’t have time for a full tour, but I was keen to squeeze in a dram and explore. I then got a text with some good/bad news that my ferry had been delayed by 30 minutes, giving me extra time to relax and enjoy a whisky.

The distillery is conveniently located, just a five-minute walk from the ferry terminal. Inside the distillery, there’s a large shop at the back and a real log fire with a seating area at the front. The log fire had just been lit as I arrived, and although I imagine it would be perfect on a cold winter evening, it was less so on a surprisingly hot spring day!

There isn’t a bar at the distillery, but you can purchase whisky or gin at the counter. The whisky options available were the original The Hearach and the Oloroso cask finish. As you might expect, I went for the Oloroso finish, although at £8.50, it felt a bit steep for a single dram (I mean, they make the stuff here!).

The whisky itself is peated and quite young. Despite being only around 10ppm, its youth gives it a sharp, spicy edge. It’s an interesting dram, but in my opinion, it would benefit from a few more years of maturation to fully develop its character. Definitely one to revisit in the future.

After finishing my dram, I headed back for my delayed ferry. The crossing to the Isle of Skye was fairly smooth, which was a relief. I had booked dinner at my hotel for that evening, so I needed to reschedule because my ferry was delayed.

Disembarking at Uig was a bit different from what I expected. Instead of walking straight off the ferry, you board a shuttle bus that drives off the ferry deck to the terminal. I did not initially realise that and followed the crowd, hoping for the best. There was a brief moment where I wondered if I’d accidentally joined a random tour group, but thankfully, it all worked out.

From the ferry terminal, it’s only about a 25-minute walk to the Uig Hotel, where I was staying for the night. You simply head right from the terminal and follow a footpath most of the way, although it is quite a hilly route. When I arrived and opened the door to my room, I was hit by a wave of heat as it was absolutely boiling inside. I quickly opened the window to cool things down, which isn’t something you often find yourself doing in Scotland.

I had dinner booked and was seated in a small conservatory-style restaurant with views out over the bay, which was an ideal setting after a long day of travelling. I opted for the fish and chips, figuring it would be the safest bet for something fresh, and I wasn’t disappointed. The haddock was excellent, paired with chunky chips and surprisingly good mushy peas. I’m not usually a fan of mushy peas, but these were done so well that they completely won me over.

After dinner, I retired to my room for a cup of tea and enjoyed watching the sunset from the fantastic view that I had from my room, which looked out over the bay.